P.L.A.Y : Spring-Summer 27
P.L.A.Y : Spring-Summer 27
“It was a dream come true: leather as a second skin,” says Jean-Claude Jitrois. With P.L.A.Y., that skin steps out into the daylight.£ Jitrois, the Paris couture house of stretch leather founded by Jean-Claude Jitrois, presents P.L.A.Y. (Put Love All Around You), its Spring/Summer 2027 collection for women and men, on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. Designed by Tristan Van Bruwaene and Jay Wilson under the artistic direction of Jean-Claude Jitrois, the collection takes stretch leather and suede outside. Spring/Summer 2027 starts where a good party keeps going: outside, in the morning, with everyone still dancing. P.L.A.Y. began as a conversation, and with a simple belief that love turns up in unexpected places: on the skin, on a dancefloor, between friends, in the way a stranger looks at you. “There is no such thing as chance, there are only encounters.” The starting question was this: what would the Black Leather Ball look like in daylight? In the 2000s, Jean-Claude Jitrois threw these parties at his home on the rue de Rivoli. The dress code was leather and black, and the motto was carpe diem, for one night at least. This season the party moves to the street and the festival field, where the sun hits the leather. After years devoted to psychomotor therapy and psychodrama, a form of therapeutic role play, Jean- Claude Jitrois asked the two designers to imagine a collection that answers it in a festive, sunlit key: clothes made to P.L.A.Y. The references are personal. The team spent the summer between Barcelona, Mykonos, Tomorrowland and Paris and brought back what they lived. Jay Wilson describes the collection as “a freak mix of life snapshots, put through a washing machine until it came out beautiful.” The mood is indie sleaze: girls in couture and rubber boots, still dancing at a festival long after sunrise. The soundtrack is inspired by the new wave of women DJs, Charlotte de Witte and Amelie Lens among them. The multicoloured fringe dress, a nod to Bob Mackie, was made to be danced in. On the black fringe jacket, every strip of leather sits on a silk base, so it moves almost weightlessly. The embroideries show the house's technical mastery at its finest. The bolero embroidered with roses is worked in ladder-stitch openwork and comes with a matching zipped corset top. Other embroideries start from torn posters layered on city walls. Each one is embroidered and cut by hand. The Stéphanie theme plays with volume: leather blouses with gathered sleeves, ruffled cuffs and peplums tied with bows, worn with long skirts slit to the top of the thigh.
For party nights, a selection of little second-skin dresses, close to the body and made to move. Trousers come close-fitting in capri lengths, or embroidered and full of volume. For both women and men, the trousers with eyelets and laces come in stretch leather or stretch suede. Elsewhere there are laced corsets, reversible capes and tennis stripes taken apart and put back together. Menswear comes in chestnut stretch suede, blue and black genuine python, second-skin leather tops, very short shorts and black stretch leather jumpsuits. A Jitrois hoodie is covered in Swarovski crystals. Black stays at the centre of the palette. Around it come petal pink, denim blue, mint and chestnut, with red, fuchsia and yellow for the end of the day, and every colour at once in the fringe. For P.L.A.Y., the party is much more than a place. It is a state of mind. Each piece is designed for every player to be their strongest self, and their most playful self too: free to interact. Worn in full light, Jitrois second-skin leather becomes an invitation to live with renewed intensity. Put Love All Around You. Presented on 2 October 2026 in Paris.
ABOUT JITROIS
Founded by Jean-Claude Jitrois, Jitrois is a Paris couture house devoted to leather. In the mid-1990s, Jean-Claude Jitrois invented stretch leather, a lambskin that moves with the body like a second skin and has defined the house ever since. Each piece is handcrafted in France and can be made to measure. Boutique: 38 rue du Faubourg Saint- Honoré, 75008 Paris. jitrois.com Press contact: presse@jitrois.com

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